Ohrid guide: where to stay and what to do

Why stay in the old town

Ohrid’s old town climbs a hill above the lake, with narrow cobbled lanes, traditional white houses and churches around every corner. If you stay here, everything you came for is a walk away: the lake shore, the main square, the churches, cafés and restaurants. You don’t need a car to get around, and in the evening you can walk home after dinner by the water.

Our two apartments are in a traditional house in the old town, two minutes on foot from the main square and three from the lake shore. Parking is free at the house, so you can arrive by car and leave it there for your whole stay.

Sights within walking distance

All of these are in the old town and can be seen in a day on foot. Wear comfortable shoes: the lanes are steep in places.

• Church of St. Sophia: one of the oldest churches in the town, with medieval frescoes, close to the lake shore.
• Ancient Theatre: a Hellenistic theatre in the middle of the old town, used again today for summer concerts and plays.
• Samuel’s Fortress: the walls at the top of the hill, with the widest view over the town and the lake.
• Plaošnik: the site of St. Clement’s monastery, with the rebuilt Church of St. Clement and Panteleimon and old floor mosaics.
• Church of St. John at Kaneo: the small church on a cliff above the lake, the best-known view of Ohrid. Go in the late afternoon for the sunset.

From Kaneo a wooden walkway runs along the water back towards the town centre, so you can walk a loop: up through the old town, down to Kaneo and back along the lake.

Beaches and the lake

Lake Ohrid is clean and clear, and the water is warm enough for swimming from June to September. The closest places to swim are the small beaches below the old town, including Kaneo. For longer, sandier beaches, go south along the lake to Lagadin or Peštani, a short drive or bus ride away.

From the harbour by the town centre, boats leave for trips along the shore, including to the Monastery of St. Naum near the southern end of the lake.

Food and drink

The old town and the lake shore are full of restaurants, from simple grills to terraces over the water. Try tavče gravče (baked beans, the national dish), fresh salads with white cheese, and local wine from the Macedonian vineyards. Many restaurants serve fish; the native Ohrid trout is protected, so ask what you are being served. We are happy to share our own favourite places when you arrive.

Getting here

• From Ohrid airport: the airport is about 10 km north of the town, around 15 minutes by taxi.
• From Skopje: about 170 km, about two and a half hours by car, or by bus.
• From Tirana: about 130 km, about two and a half hours by car through Struga.

More details, including parking and check-in times, are in our questions and answers.

Three days in Ohrid

Day 1: the old town. Start at the main square, walk up through the lanes to St. Sophia and the Ancient Theatre, then on to Samuel’s Fortress and Plaošnik. Come down to Kaneo in the late afternoon for the sunset and walk back along the lake for dinner.

Day 2: the lake. Take a boat or drive south to the Monastery of St. Naum and the springs around it, with a stop at the Bay of Bones, a museum of a prehistoric village built on the water. Swim at one of the beaches on the way back.

Day 3: the mountains. Drive up into Galičica National Park, between Lake Ohrid and Lake Prespa, for the view over both lakes. Or take it slowly: a swim in the morning, a long lunch and a last walk through the old town.

Book your stay in Ohrid

Both apartments sleep two and have a balcony with a view of the lake. See Apartment K and Apartment M, pick your dates on the calendar and send us a request. We reply personally.